One lesson I have learned in my research on social innovation is how overcoming constraints – be they embodied in standard business models, consumer perceptions, supply chain relationships, or others – can lead to new ways of thinking, and ultimately innovation. Faced with limitations, instead of being stalled, social entrepreneurs push the boundaries of what is possible, devising innovative solutions that address our societal and environmental challenges in new ways.
I have seen this again and again at leading sustainable companies, for example, Patagonia’s introduction of a line of provisions led to a new standard for regenerative agriculture; Allbirds development of a new carbon negative material – Sweetfoam – for shoe soles, and Toast Ale’s development of a bread crumb business to spread using bread waste to other brewers.
I recently talked to Jennifer Stucko, founder of luxury footwear brand Prota Fiori that pioneered the application of first-to-market sustainable, certified, and premium quality materials such as upcycled apple skins and grape skins, biologic silk, bio-based sugarcane molasses while also leveraging the technical excellence and craftsmanship of Italian design with authentic Italian supply chain and scalable production.
Prota Fiori is also a B Corp, so is certified for its social and environmental performance. This distinction, while mainly about the sustainable operations of the company, has not gone unnoticed in the marketplace. For instance, TIME CEO Jessica Sibley, an investor and advisory board member Prota Fiori told me “As a woman-owned B-corp, Prota Fiori exemplifies the power of social entrepreneurship, with its focus on environmental stewardship and social responsibility.”
Jennifer described to me how her rigorous commitment to sustainable materials and craft has resulted in new inventions and methods of manufacturing which is now a unique business capability for her firm that can even be applied beyond the realm of fashion to other industries and product categories.
To learn more about Prota Fiori and how commitment to sustainable production has led to new innovative capabilities for the company, read more in my interview with Jennifer below.
Christopher Marquis: To get us started, can you please introduce Prota Fiori shoes manufacturing process?
Jennifer Stucko: Just like cheese or wine in Italy, different regions specialize in different shoe components, textiles, and technologies in the supply chain. I select our suppliers based on the heritage behind the region. The challenge is to find the suppliers who are at the cross-section of cutting edge innovation and technology while offering premium, certifiable and scalable materials that can be applied to the design of elegant footwear – from your transitional ballerina flat to a barely there, sexy sandal.
Our skilled artisans produce our footwear in the central region of Le Marche, Italy. This area is known around the world for the production of footwear, continuing a tradition that began post World War II when the region’s farmers desired to learn a new craft outside of agricultural farming. The production process behind Prota Fiori shoes is led by hundreds of skilled hands and consists of up to 100 steps.
The range of touch, feel, and quality – not to mention the honesty and credibility of the sustainable materials entering the market – is vast. It’s essential to me that we meet all of the criteria required to produce a premium level eco-conscious luxury shoe. I am committed to this process. Prior to Prota Fiori, I was customizing men’s ultra luxury footwear sometimes priced north of $10,000 for a single pair of shoes. I’ve taken this learned skill and applied it every step of the way it takes to create Prota Fiori.
Transparency is at the heart of Prota Fiori. I personally meet with our suppliers, learn their processes, and walk the facilities to understand how they work and who is working with them. It is sometimes the case in Italy that manufacturing is physically taking place in Italy, but perhaps not by Italian artisans, and this in my opinion is not transparent.
Marquis: It is great you are so focused on transparency, but can you share more about the circularity standards and certifications behind the materials you are adopting?
Stucko: I seek suppliers with varying degrees and scopes of what can be considered circular and sustainable such as upcycled, recycled, regenerated, biodegradable, bio-based and responsibly sourced materials. I like to keep the net wide in order to have an open mindset, however I tend to gravitate toward the evolution of materials coming from the post production of the food sector and natural resources throughout Italy.
Scientifically credible certifications that part of our supply chain include but are not limited to USDA Biobased Product, Global Recycled Standard, Global Organic Textile, Standard, Silver Rated Leather Working Group Certification, Oekotex Standard,CPSC, ASTM F2923, PFC Free, Lenzing EcoVero, Carbon Neutral Certified by TUV SUD, FSC certified paper and PEFC paper.
You can find information about our materials certifications under the ‘Our Materials’ section on our online boutique.
Marquis: It sounds like you have developed a unique capability in this area. How long have you been building a portfolio of technology with your application of sustainable materials and can you share more about your research and development, particularly as they apply beyond the fashion industry?
Stucko: We have over half a decade of research and development in sustainable materials with footwear and accessories applications with a deep understanding of the complexities in footwear materials design – which is much more complicated than a handbag or ready to wear. We have an extensive database of suppliers, pricing history, and testing of new technology and not just on prototypes. We are constantly testing new materials, many of which are not launched in the marketplace. As our expertise advances and we seek improvement in the sustainability of the shoe, we’ve started to launch projects developing shoe components with suppliers aligned and committed to our goals where I see an opportunity to improve the circularity of the shoe.
For the stage Prota Fiori is at, we have a well-developed and sophisticated IP portfolio. We have been protecting our creativity since inception with ongoing intellectual property applications, patents pending and trademark applications.
I believe that our unique ability to merge heritage businesses with cutting edge innovation is a special art that we’ve been increasingly mastering and can be applied to other industries and categories. As a social entrepreneur I find this energizing because my skill set can eventually be applied to driving change across multiple sectors therefore maximizing positive impact.
Marquis: This seems very important, not just for the planet, but also to meet future consumer demands. Why are no other fashion brands doing this? What are the top barriers to entry?
Stucko: To achieve the exceptional results that Prota Fiori has reached takes significant financial investment, time commitment, and extensive know-how. We’ve been able to achieve successful results with our products because I’ve been able to attract and build a world class team, a scalable supplier base, and manufacturing partner backed by investors.
Beyond the critical points necessary to reach our stage, the main challenges for fashion houses to adopt new technologies like we have include major barriers such as breaking existing supply chains, lack of speediness in decision-making with shareholders and most importantly, adapting a brand’s DNA, values and messaging with integrity.
Furthermore, our engineering process is imperative to applying the material science innovations to the luxury sector. It is fantastic when a new material is in research and development, but without experts like Prota Fiori pioneering the technology of how to apply and bond the materials with a design team, manufacturers, and quality controllers, the materials will certainly not be adopted quickly enough to slow down fashion’s toxicity. We showcase the possibilities of the materials science companies with years of research and development. What makes us special is that we’ve launched thousands of shoes into production and into the market with delighted, returning customers who rave about fit, quality and design, and how good they feel about their conscious purchase.
The design, style and comfort of the shoe is just as important as sustainability for our shoe clients. For instance, I recently heard from Christine Klingspor, who has been a long time supporter of Prota Fiori, and she reflected that she “instantly fell in love with the brand’s chic, sleek, timeless styles, a stark departure from what is normally available in this space. These shoes not only look great, but also make me feel great, as I know my choice is making a difference. I receive many compliments on my shoes and always love to share the story behind them, thereby promoting the idea of more conscious consumerism alongside the idea that we no longer have to sacrifice style for morality!”
Marquis: I understand there are over 80 steps in making a Prota Fiori shoe, can you take us behind the curtain of the initial stages of the shoemaking process and how you’ve advanced since 2019?
Stucko: Once we’ve defined which new materials we will launch into production, they are cut, sewn, shaped and combined – but it all starts with my creative inspiration, followed by a sketch. Once our sketches are finalized they are turned into tridimensional designs. The pattern-maker obtains a series of flat pieces that will be used for extensive prototyping. Unlike the application of traditional materials to prototyping, our process can take up to one year because of the complexities of the raw materials before we ultimately launch a design into production, and in some cases longer depending on the design of the shoe. The prototyping phase requires extensive testing and trial and error – all for the mission of making a shoe as sustainable and fashionable as possible in order to transform the toxicity of the fashion sector and show that luxury footwear can be ethical, eco-conscious and stylish.
The cutting process is key and is also done by hand. Depending on the piece of material, the single parts are carefully positioned and cut to precision. Not all sustainable materials are malleable, durable and luxurious. Passing the cutting step and bonding of all of the materials is the initial testament to the quality of the new material. We work with heritage suppliers and artisans with decades of experience and it’s incredible to see how precise their hands work in order to manipulate materials.
Our initial designs were more commercial due to our learning curve of how to work with the new materials, especially for the uppers. At this stage, we’ve executed close to 10 successful productions and have added in a new layer into the supply chain which is new techniques we apply to the uppers such as weavings, stitching, embroideries and wovens. These techniques allow us to advance and showcase Italian craftsmanship and further differentiate Prota Fiori as the pioneer in sustainable luxury footwear.
Each touch point is a matter of fine eyes where the artisans must unite each step meticulously, and the perfecting of each detail is a matter of millimeters done by the hands of each artisan, molding the next generation of materials to their craft.
Marquis: Can you say more about how Prota Fiori shoes have been recognized in the marketplace?
Stucko: Aside from our premier luxury retail distribution network including Neiman Marcus and Saks, as well as our own online boutique, Prota Fiori has a following amongst some of Hollywood’s most notable stars, including Naomi Watts, Selena Gomez and Julianne Hough.
Press features include Vogue, Marie Claire, Town & Country, Elle Italia, Fashionista, The Hollywood Reporter, Coveteur, Who What Wear, WWD, Footwear News, Il Sole 24 Ore, Forbes, Fast Company and Real Leaders.
I recently heard from Ferragamo Group Advisor, Giuseppe Abatista on the following which well reflects the impact that I believe we are having in the marketplace: “Prota Fiori tells the delightful story of a brave woman dedicated to match style, craftsmanship and sustainability. Jennifer’s approach in building a network of advisors and brand aficionados, working with the right investors and partnering with top tier retailers is innovative and agile. The values the brand is capable of expressing are a strong potential to be funneled with further marketing and communication investment and product development.”
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